Kond is known as one of Yerevan's oldest continuously inhabited neighbourhoods. Despite its strong Armenian character, however, its central square contains a cluster of non-operating mosques dating from the city's occupation by the Persian Empire. The largest of which, the Thapha Bashi mosque, still stands, having withstood the ravages of time, changing empires, and communism.
The mosque, as well as its neighbouring religious structures, had been closed by the militantly Atheist Soviet authorities, its Persian-speaking worshipers having long since left. It was converted into housing for refugees from the 1st World War. Their descendants are often still living within the structure.
Even as a ruin, this building is impressive. It boasts some of the best architectural and design elements Persian-style mosques are known for. Some of the frescoes have survived the ages intact. This site is perfect for any urban explorer.
Be sure to ask the locals first if it's OK to walk around and take pictures. They're usually very accommodating, will tell you all sorts of stories about the place, and very likely invite you in for tea, coffee, or home-made vodka.
Find your way with 142 Insider Tips from our Local Spotters
It truly is a Soviet masterpiece considering its unique design and build: it is part metro station, part cavern and, once upon a time, part cafe.
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The "Open Air Cinema" in Yerevan in Moscow Cinema has a rich history, and Soviet ruin-porn enthusiasts can access the building all-year round, too!
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"Homeland Handycrafts" in Yerevan is a social enterprise designed to revive traditional Armenian crafts while employing the most vulnerable population...
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"Hanrapetutyan Street" in Yerevan is one of the most central in the city, yet there is so much to see here. The buildings are really beautiful and old...
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"Ardēan": a center for art, architecture and design that has its gallery shop on Abovyan street in Yerevan. I like how they combine technology & tradition.
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The "Mermaids of the Underground" in Yerevan is a sculpture from 1981. The mermaids wear nothing but their hair, which was quite unusual for its time...
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"Shengavit" is an impressive 6000-year-old settlement which is preserved even better than Yerevan's old town! It was an accidental discovery in the 1930s.
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The "Cross-stone Makers" in Yerevan follow a tradition that goes back to 879 AD. The masters' metal tools on the stone create a meditative sound for me...
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The "Komitas Museum" in Yerevan is one of my favorite ones in the city. It gets me thinking about what Armenian music really is about...
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"Melancholia" is a statue in Yerevan that truly expresses the feeling that has been increasingly affecting humankind in the last century...
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"Calumet Ethnic Lounge Bar": THE place for good music in Yerevan. I don't come as often as I'd like to because of the smoke, but it's a must at least once.
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142 Insider Tips from our local Spotters
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