"Vanilica" in Belgrade doesn't have a vast offer of pastries - it's a small, unassuming, family-run bakery that I just love for the cakes and gibanica...

"Stari šlep" is the perfect restaurant for the summer days/daze in Belgrade. Its name means 'the old barge' - I'd recommend a fish soup and salad here.

"Balkan Ekspres restaurant" is in Belgrade's Zemun, a city of its own. This place is worth visiting if only just for the views from inside the train car...

"Radecki club/restaurant" on Belgrade's Zemun quay: a true local oasis - no espresso here, just plain good old 'domestic' Turkish coffee. Lots to see here.

"Illegal Cinema" in Belgrade is a very special institution. Everyone can suggest a film for screening, if they start a discussion about it at the end...

The daily menu can, for example, include pumpkin with leek and poppy seeds, Thai curry with dried banana, chutney and raita. Or the good old veggie burger.